Saturday, December 3, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - end of the beginning

Our last day. Last night Niki alluded to planning another holiday together next year in Cancun and I knew she’d be bringing it up again at breakfast. I determined to get in there first. I have to do it, and before we are on a plane back to our lives.

“I want to say thank you for a wonderful holiday. It was exactly what I needed, to get out of myself and my routine and see things with a bit more perspective.”

They beamed. Excellent.

“In fact I see so much better what’s held me back. I’ve been afraid of things. Afraid that if I made plans or started anything long-term that it meant I’d have to stick around to finish it. I didn’t want to consider the possibility of living more than a year or so. I wanted to die so much and couldn’t bear the thought that I wasn’t going to, maybe for a long time.”

Sophie reached over and took my hands. Niki welled up. Oh dear, my intention wasn’t for them to feel badly. I rushed on.

“But now I realize that was wrong. I still miss Andrew. I always will. There will never be anyone like him. But that doesn’t mean I can’t make my life a good one. And meet new people and go to new places and make plans. What we did on Sunday in Lautoka, going to the church and on to that family’s house afterwards was exactly the kind of thing I want to do. Not just lying on a beach. I want to go to far off places and stay with local people, learn about their lives, their histories. I’ve been in one place for far too long. I wouldn’t have felt like that if we hadn’t done this trip together. You have no idea how grateful I am to actually look forward to something. To consider a future. And to want it.”

There was a pause. “Well, I guess that’s something”, said Niki slowly.

“Hey, I haven’t made one of my lists for two whole days!” Sophie smiled and Niki laughed. “Now look, we leave tomorrow. We are going to lie on the beach and get brown enough to make people back home jealous. We’ll swim and snorkel the reef and hit the bar and dance until we drop. You guys are going to get laid tonight and I am going to talk to new faces. It’s going to be the best last day of anyone’s ‘fun in the sun’ holiday.”
We clinked glasses, made a toast to the power of threesomes and giggled like schoolgirls.

Wednesday, November 30, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - flashing before my eyes


We went out in a lively little boat to go snorkeling on a distant, outer reef today. It was crawling with life: fish, anemones, starfish, coral, crabs. And the colours: purple, brilliant blue, green, pink and scarlet, gold and silver, orange. I had always thought a coral was a coral was a coral, but I have found out on this trip that I was wrong. Some are like spiky bushes, some round and looking like a brain, some float and wave in the wash, some are bushy and some are flat like mushrooms. At the edge of the reef, the coral slides down and the water goes from light greeny-grey to the most amazing blue. It’s luminous and clear, and so warm on the surface I stretch my arms down to feel the cooler water below.

Niki preferred to sunbathe on the boat, so Sophie and I spent most of the time following the wall of the reef and reveling in what we saw. We’d tread water and chat before going down again. During one of our treading chats, the water suddenly dropped and we found ourselves actually standing on the reef. We continued to chat not really noticing until Sophie, who was facing outwards suddenly went white. I turned just in time to see a huge wave come crashing in.
The force of the water sent us on our backs, tearing masks and snorkels off faces. I felt someone else land on my right arm before rolling away. As the water subsided I was just able to get a breath before another white wall crashed on top of me. I couldn’t see Sophie or any of the others. Every time I got a bit of breath another wave came and sent me backwards, helpless in its power, and then I would feel the water suck me down. My muscles strained to get me up for air before I was sucked down again and again, and before long I could feel myself getting tired and gasping less and less air with each gulp. I just had to get off that reef. But I couldn’t seem to get any momentum and my lungs were getting squeezed. I worked my arms against the pull, my chest bursting, heart pounding as it fought upwards for oxygen. As soon as I thought I was getting somewhere I’d get pulled down again. I started to swallow almost as much water as air with each mad gulp and I could feel my gag reflex starting to choke me. What if I can’t do it? What if my strength gives out? What if the water is stronger than I am and I can’t fight the surge anymore? I have to get off this reef!

It seemed interminable, but I worked and worked, each breath holding out as long as possible. Eventually I was able to get far enough away from the reef to avoid that dreadful pull, where the waters were flatter and I could tread water, sucking in air and wildly looking for Sophie. Where was she? Oh my God! Please let her be okay. My heart hurt and my lungs felt like popped balloons as I gasped and hacked and sputtered, searching madly in all directions. Ah, thank goodness, I could see the brightly coloured boat. I lay on my back and weakly propelled myself there, my arms completely spent. There I found Sophie. Oh thank you, thank you.

We greeted each other with hollow eyes and weak hugs. Apparently I had got the worst of it, and was told to get into the boat to have the coral cuts on my back seen to. My arms were like jelly and it took a few tries to heave myself in. Rivers of blood streamed down my back, but I felt no real pain, only relief at being back in the air. I lay there in the bottom of the boat, feeling its solid wood surface cradling me as I breathed heavily. The air felt good, sweet, and I inhaled deeply revelling in feeling my lungs fill.
I’ll never underestimate the power of the sea again.
In the evening, as I sat waving to the others dancing, my back covered in plasters and iodine, I realized that this place hasn’t changed one bit in the few days since we arrived, but I had. And my tolerance to it had. Life in the resort is just so fake, an escape. Real life is political uncertainty, personal toil, cultural diversity, historical precepts, rejoicing in surviving and thriving. Things that Fijians face. And Italians and Chinese and Panamanians. And fishermen and farmers and explorers. I have the ability to go to those places and see those people and learn those lessons. To do things I am able to do that others can’t. I am healthy and intelligent; there’s no reason I can’t use the body and brain I’ve been granted. To maybe take my experiences and make them productive somehow. I don’t want to have any more holidays. I only want to travel. There are so many places to see! And others to go back to. And learn. And live. I actually want to live.

Sunday, November 27, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - alone, but not lonely

I spent today snorkeling. This is one of the best things I’ve gained from this trip, looking through this tiny window on the watery world that covers so much of our globe. Now that I’ve done it a few times I feel much more in control, and I hate having to interrupt to get more sunscreen. I didn’t go in for lunch with the others. This world was far too interesting. And I needed to be on my own today.

More of the same tonight. Dancing, drinking, flirting. The novelty is wearing off. I pleaded sunburn this time to go back to the room early, which was pretty well the truth as my back was rather pink despite the gallons of SPF 30 I’d put on it throughout the day. Another night on my own to read my books and think my thoughts. But I can’t settle with my book tonight and even my thoughts are distracted, so I turned in early.

Saturday, November 26, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - stiff drink needed!

The bar area was already pretty full of bronzed bodies when we got there, and everyone turned to see us newcomers, surrounding us as we each took our place in the throng. It’s evident that this is a place set up for the sole purpose of meeting people of the opposite sex, and conversations were all about sizing each other up and seeing how far everyone was willing to go, which seemed pretty far from what I heard. We sat with six guys and one dark haired woman and talk deepened as dinner concluded and the dancing began. One Aussie seemed very keen on me, flirting, buying me drinks, and finding every excuse to touch my arm or hair. Lord knows why with the three other women looking far more gorgeous and far more willing. When he got up to get drinks Sophie slipped me a condom. I shoved it back at her angrily. I won’t be needing that!

The Aussie (he didn't even tell me his name!) and I danced quite a bit and the drink helped me loosen up a bit more. I forgot he was there sometimes and just danced the way I wanted. The room began to swirl with the music and I felt myself float along with it. I think there might have been a different guy at some point. I can’t remember. I saw Sophie go off with a dark haired hunk pretty early on. Niki was sitting on two guys’ laps and kissing first one then another. It was easy enough for me to avoid the kissing thing but I could feel a lot of groping going on. I guess I just went with it. As long as there was no kissing I could pretend it was just part of the music. I do remember breaking away with several others at one point and running down to the beach to plunge in for a swim. Someone was harping on about wanting to find the Southern Cross in the sky. I have an uneasy feeling that it was me.

There was some shedding of clothes, but I know I didn’t. I know because I woke up in them this morning and they were still damp from being in the sea. I have no idea how I got back to the lodge, but I was alone in my own bed and fully dressed so I must have. Totally alone as it turned out. Niki and Sophie were nowhere to be found. I showered and changed, drank a big bottle of water all in one go, and headed to the phones.

“Happy Birthday Mom.”

“Well, the happy traveller! Where are you?”

“In Fiji. With Niki and a friend from London. You remember. I wrote to you about it.”

“Lucky you on holiday.”

“It was your suggestion. Besides I haven’t taken a holiday in three years.”

“Three years – try 35!”

I took a deep breath and tried to channel some of Sophie’s meditative calm. “How’s Dad? How are the others? How did the ‘Jackson Wonders’ turn out this year?”

“Oh I can’t keep track of all your father’s beans you know that. Goodness, he’s even talking about developing his own breed or stock or whatever you call it. He does a few things in the lab and suddenly he’s a Nobel prize winner. We’ll be lucky if he doesn’t grow something that doesn’t strangle us in our beds.”

“And you? What are you doing today?”

“Well, things are slow. There’s only one funeral this weekend. If people don’t start dying more before my voice gives out we’ll be going to the poor house. Thank goodness the divining work is flooding in, if you’ll pardon the pun. I’ve got three contracts this month alone! I may have to put my prices up.”

“That’s great Mom. Are you doing anything fun tonight?”

“Sidney and Sam are taking me out for dinner. Just me, without your Father for a change. Isn’t that nice?”

“Yes indeed. Where are you going?”

“They said I could go anywhere I liked. I think we’ll try the new Chinese. Your Dad and I went to a dinner last night. It was arranged by one of my mah jong friends Margaret who recently remarried after many years as a widow. We haven't taken to her new husband. At the last mah jong afternoon he read us a poem that he had composed for Margaret and had read at the wedding ceremony. It was cringe making. Far too sentimental. Made my blood run cold. I am trying crewel work, and working on an enormous canvas depicting a giant watermill. It’s going well although I am getting fed up with beige. By the way I haven’t received your parcel.”

“That’s because I didn’t send one. Sam has –“

“Well I suppose a phone call is something.”

“-a gift that I wired her money for.”

“Oh. Well.”

“Hope you like it. Is Sam able to leave the commune then?”

“She’s taken over the Secretary position and apparently it allows her to go out and make purchases and appointments. She thoughtfully worked out some time tonight for our dinner between duties.”

“What will she wear?” As soon as I said it I knew I shouldn’t have asked that out loud.

“What do you mean ‘What will she wear’? Just because she lives in a nudist commune doesn’t mean she can’t make herself look nice for her family. Don’t you think she’s thought of that? Sometimes you are impossibly ignorant. I hope you are being a good friend to your girlfriends there in, where is it, Tahiti?”

“Fiji. We are having a good time.”

“I bet you are, gadding about on holiday. Lucky girl. What do you do there?”

“Oh not much. You know.”

“No I don’t know, that’s why I’m asking. What’s the food like?”

“Fine. Everything’s fine.”

“Is it hot? Sunny? What’s the water like? Are the people nice? ”

“Yes, it’s hot.”

“I suppose there are boys there where you are?”

“I’m with Niki. Oh course there are boys. Or ‘men’ as we like to call them.”

“Don’t get smart. You’re not too old to be told how to behave.”

“I’m 30.”

“When I was 30 I had 3 children and a full time job. No holidays for me, that’s for sure. Bringing up a pack of girls isn’t the easiest thing.”

“Well, we’re brought up now so you don’t have to worry.”

“A mother always worries. If you were a mother you’d know that. Sidney knows that. She’s a good mother to her children, works hard, is considerate of her family, always here when I need her. Do you know she calls me every single day?”

“It’s not long distance for her. I call you too mom. Lots. Most Sundays. When I'm at home of course.”

“Not all Sundays.”

“Yes, I know, but I have to work sometimes as I’ve told you many times. And I try to call you the next day.”

“I get sick with worry. You have no idea. I can never call you, no phone in that room or bedsit whatsit thing you call a home. You never have time to answer my letters. There you are in a foreign country all alone, no one to look after you, no man in your life, going from parties to parties I’m sure.”

“Mom, I don’t go to parties much, you know that. And I’m fine. I like being alone.”

“No one likes being alone. Why do you live alone? Why don’t you move in with a friend? That Sophie girl for instance, who seems to be your only friend in a country of millions? I don’t even know what she looks like. Is she English or of the Asian persuasion?”

“Sophie lives with –“, oops, I almost told her about Sophie’s unusual living arrangements with her two lovers, something I don’t think Mom would understand “-someone else. There’s no room for me.”

“Why don’t you come home? Find a boy. Or bring a boy home. Maybe one you find there in Fuji.”

“Fiji.”

“Don’t interrupt. Find a nice boy. Or even a man, ‘as you like to call them’. Bring him home and settle down. Or come for a holiday, now that you know what it feels like. It’s been years since I saw you. I could send you money. Is that the problem? Do you want me to send you money?”

“No Mom, I don’t want you to send me money. It’s not that. It’s not that I won’t come home, exactly. It’s not home anymore for me. I have to find my own home. And, well, I have to finish my thesis.”

“Oh pooh, you are becoming as boring as your father. What is your thesis thingummy on anyway? You’ve never told me. Aren’t maps already researched enough for this world?”

“You wouldn’t understand it Mom. Lots of jargon.”

“There you go. You never tell me anything about your work, your life. You are just finding excuses. And now you say you don’t have a home? How do you think that makes me feel? On my birthday.”

“I’m sorry Mom. You did a great job bringing us up. You must know that – we’re all healthy, independent. I appreciate everything you did for me. But you set too good an example – you raised us too well. You taught me to stand on my own two feet, to look out for myself, to rely on myself. I’m a modern woman.”

“I’ll give you modern. There’s such a thing as too independent if you ask me. Studying all the time, no holiday for three years. A hermit. You live like a hermit. Of course I can only guess how you live. I’ve never seen your room and you never tell me anything about anything. I think you’re afraid to come home. You’re hiding from home. You’re afraid of what you’ll find if you come home and actually have to answer questions face to face.”

“Looks like my five minutes are up Mom. Gotta go – have a lovely day, say hi to the others, love you, byyeeee…”

I had a good stiff drink even though it was still only 11am. She was starting to hit a nerve there at the end. Mom always manages to find just the right button and press it at just the right time in just the right way to wrest just the right kind of pain. How does she do it?

I spent the afternoon snorkeling to try to replace the conversation with distraction. By the time evening came round I was keen to have a good time in spite of her words. Or perhaps it was because of her words. After all, isn’t this what she tells me again and again is the sort of thing she wants me to do? Get out and be with people? Talking to her always seems to confuse me.

I vented to Niki and Sophie. Niki was silent. I guess she’s heard it all before. Sophie has never met my mother so didn’t have any reference. “She’s just worried about you,” she said when I’d done ranting.

“But she’s so changeable. She says one thing and then switches gears in mid stream. She tries so hard, too hard. I feel invaded.”

“Well, maybe it comes from her early life. Or even a previous life. Our minds work in very inscrutable ways. Didn’t you tell me she lost her brother?

“Yeah.” I was still feeling sullen, like a willful child. Why were they taking her side of things? Why do I always feel about 14 years old after talking to my mother?

“Her only brother? Her only sibling?”

“Uh-huh. When she was 14. He was 17.”

“How did her parents take it, his death I mean?”

Oh, really badly I think. He died in India of a fever a few weeks after he left home. He always wanted to go off travelling but wasn’t allowed to until he left school. My Mom’s Mom didn’t live long after and her Dad never got over it. He was always saying things like ‘if only I had a son to take care of me, nobody is better at taking care of things than a man’ and ‘boys are so much more useful than girls’ and ‘girls don’t need to be as smart as boys, why do they feel they have to go to school, they can’t do as well anyway’.” I don’t remember him much, he died when I was little, but I remember him saying things that always making me feel inferior just because I was a girl. And he was always ragging on Mom for having three of them. Us, I mean. Girls.”

“Well it sounds to me a classic psychological prodigal son issue. The one who goes off, your uncle, is revered, and the one who stays, your Mother, is taken for granted. She’s conflicted. Was she close to her brother?”

“Yes, she missed him terribly. Still does I think.”

“There you go. Your mother felt the pressure of living up to a memory and now passes on that to you. I’m guessing you’re the one who is most like her brother in temperament, you’re the traveller and she has to stay behind. Again. It’s classic. She’s spiritually unaligned.”

“I never thought about it that way.”

Sophie continued, “Not unlike you. Your essence is upset because she says things you don’t want to hear. But they are perhaps things you are supposed to hear. To really listen to. You aren’t listening to her true spirit.”

I squirmed in my seat. Niki interrupted, “Look, I don’t want to spend all night talking about Mothers and Daughters, okay? Or you’ll get me started on mine. My glass is empty and the dance floor is calling.”

Grateful to escape an uncomfortable conversation I leapt up to join her and put the whole thing out of my mind. Dancing on sand is such a sensuous experience. My Aussie of last night had found another, probably more willing partner, and I was quite happy to sit out and watch sometimes. At the other end of the table sat a couple of English ‘lager louts’ who drank beer after beer and kept winking at me in a bleary eyed way. One of them had a face like a rolled up sock. Their conversation got louder and louder and it was soon clear to anyone within 500 feet that they were hatching a plan with one of the Fijian waiters to smuggle black coral to sell at a huge profit in England. It all sounds very dodgy and I declined the invitation to be a part of this ‘great deal’. They said I was nuts not to join them seeing as I am a woman and have an extra orifice in which to hide the coral (charming!). The dance floor beckoned after that!

Thursday, November 24, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - 66.6% happy again

For island dwellers Fijians are pretty rotten sailors. Everyone gets sick the minute they set foot on a boat. The ride out to Beachcomber Island was great, even if we did have to dodge vomit, but now that we are here I am oddly unmoved by its beauty. Yesterday seemed to me to be so perfect, so genuine, and this place, full of bikinis and sunglasses and drinks in coconut shells with coloured straws, seems fake. Niki and Sophie do not feel that way at all, having stripped into bathing suits within thirty seconds of arrival. I think they really enjoyed the novelty of the church service and family feast, but felt a bit uneasy the whole time. The exact opposite of me, as now they are relaxed and in their element while I feel a bit precarious.

While the others went to check out the amenities I wandered around, trying to get my bearings. It didn’t take long, I crossed the entire island in about 10 minutes. There is a lovely white sandy beach and beautiful tropical foliage, a real island paradise, if you ignore the bugs of course. I’ve gotten pretty good at that, given that they are here in large numbers all day every day. Waves broke over the coral reef surrounding the island, people swam and snorkeled and lounged in unfettered enjoyment. It looked like a movie set.

The three of us met for drinks and the girls were bubbling over with happiness so I put away my unsettled reactions and took in all their news.

“There are oodles of cute guys here, mostly Australians but never mind.”

“There’s entertainment every night, and a sand dance floor. Dancing in sand sounds totally awesome, doesn’t it Sopha-bed?”

“It looks like a very well-appointed party place. We are going to have a great time here.”

“We can rent snorkeling gear and there’s a glass bottomed boat we can go out in to look at the reefs,” which I know Niki put in mostly for my benefit. I smiled my appreciation.

“And there are some guys who offered to teach us to dive properly.”

“All our meals are buffet style and dinner is in two hours so I am like, a quick swim, then a shower and change so we can hang out at the bar in time to meet some of the others and decide who we want to sit with, okay?”

The cold shower felt great on our hot salty bodies and while we dressed we tried to anticipate what would be on the buffet table.

Sunday, November 20, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - uplifted spiritually and physically

It’s Sunday. And why is that worth noting? Well, in Fiji there’s a Sunday ban. That means everything is closed. Nothing is running. No shopping, no swimming, no sports. No taxis, no buses and no boats. That’s right. No boats. There’s nothing to do except eat, sleep and go to church. I feel so stupid – I knew about the Sunday ban but it didn’t twig that it would affect our getting to Beachcomber. Of course I don’t think of us staying another night in Lautoka as being ‘stuck in this god-forsaken dump’ like Niki does, but it does require a shift in plans.

There was nothing the others could suggest to counteract my suggestion that we go to a church service. After all, it’s part of the culture, and there’s nothing else on offer. We chose a small church with a board outside that indicated there was a service at 10am. It was really just a wooden room with a few benches and several large bouquets of flowers. The colour of the walls was that garish green that seems to be a national favourite. Homes, shops, cafes and churches all use use it in generous amounts, along with yellow and sometimes a very bright pink. I wonder, are these colours of choice, or are they the only ones available, reject colours from first world countries that donate paint?

The small place was crammed to the rafters with locals dressed up in shiny clothes. We got there at 5 mintues to 10am and halfway through the service. Nothing in Fiji actually starts when it advertises it will. We tried to creep in unnoticed and sat in the back but were spotted, were welcomed warmly from the front and saw heads regularly craning back to look at us. We soon noticed a few English words creeping into the service, for our benefit no doubt.

It was a long service, and the others nodded off but I didn’t mind. The music was glorious. A choir sang a cappella in the most intricate and wonderful harmonies – I counted five different lines! The congregation added its own harmonies as well so we were surrounded by this astounding audio beauty. Music must be such an integral part of life here. So must be man-made fibres I think. Fijian females seem to love wearing anything that glitters and shines on Sunday. Everyday sulus are left at home and prized ‘Palangi’ clothes come out for the weekly airing. Women wear dresses that cover their knees and arms in shiny polyester weighed down with bows and glitter, and little girls are frilled and laced to death, right down to their socks and shiny strapped shoes. Men are less showy in starched white shirts and dark sulus. The parson was a Fijian who had married an Australian woman who seemed to me to be more concerned about the state of her white shoes than about her husband’s sermon. I heard more "Hallelujah"s in 2 hours than I have heard in 20 years. There was real joy here, not like the sad church services at home.

When it was finally over (after noon!), we got up to leave, but were surrounded with smiles and handshakes and ‘welcome to the palangis’. A large man and his equally large wife asked us to join in their Sunday feast and I quickly said ‘yes!’ before the others could make up an excuse. A real, local, not-put-on-by-a-tourist-resort Fijian feast! I ignored Niki and Sophie’s hesitant faces as we followed about a dozen family members to their home (painted a sort of orange colour completely destroying my earlier observations) where we sat on woven mats on the floor and talked in halting English. I tried out my Fijian and got a great response, smiles and shouts of ‘mbula!’ and handshakes. Very vigourous handshakes. We were asked endless questions about our homes and families. Nike and Sophie answered with curt politeness, but I asked everyone around me about Fijian music and art and their school system and politics and history. I had a wonderful time!
Eventually a series of dishes was laid out in front of us. Breadfruit, taro root, octopus, papaya, pineapple, mango, sweet potato, cassava, an entire watermelon cut into curves. Roast chicken, roast pig, cucumbers, tomatoes, yams, a wonderful white fish simply roasted in a mesh of leaves, chow mein, dalo, a starchy white round vegetable I couldn’t identify, a stew of eggplant, tomato, coconut and dalo leaves, another dish of dalo leaves alone. It kept coming and coming for hours. The best dish was something called “kokoda”, raw fish in coconut and lemon juice with tomatoes. We ate until we couldn’t eat and then had to eat a little more until everyone lay back groaning. There were cheese puffs strung along coconut strands, with cigarettes stuck on the end, and all pierced into coconuts as decorations. One by one the cigarettes were removed and smoked, and the now soft cheezies were eaten by the children, in the way of after dinner mints. Soon snoring could be heard amid the low hum of conversation.
As the light began to decline we rose and thanked everyone before leaving. We ourselves were thanked so vehemently it was as if we’d hosted them! What a friendly, open people. I think Niki and Sophie were a little taken aback by the whole experience and when we got back to the hotel they lay on their beds, groaning with full bellies and soon fell asleep, but as night descended I went outside and sat on a rickety chair that was missing its back and watched the palm trees become black silhouettes against the darkening indigo sky. The stars showed themselves one by one, revealed as blue became black, not upstaged by any moon, stars allowed to perform their glittering dance across the heavens. I felt so happy, and so connected to that sky and those stars and this place.

Saturday, November 19, 1988

Chapter 6 - Fiji - another hangover

Oh, my head. And the bouncing bus wasn’t helping at all. The only good thing was the others felt the same so we could all keep quiet and try to heal. I had no idea I had drunk enough to hurt but maybe it was the combination of drinks rather than the actual amount. Watching field after field of sugar cane pass by was oddly calming, mesmerizing even. At one point it started to rain in absolute torrents, and there was a scramble to roll down the clear plastic curtain that covers the bus’s open sides before getting soaked. Occasionally we passed a tree full of ripe mangoes left unpicked. In this moist heat the stench of rotting mangoes was pungent and unique, sickly sweet, cloying, a smell I’m sure I will never forget.

We pulled into Lautoka about noon, a busy town of primarily Indian Fijians. We have to stay the night as the boat taking us to Beachcomber only goes in the morning. We found a hotel a little bit out of town and quite pleasant although very quiet and rather unkept. There was a so-called pool area, which ended up being a concrete square with a small and dirty puddle of water in the middle. The poolside bar, which was a bench of peeling paintwork under dusty coconut thatch, was closed. So we spent the rest of the day wandering about town. There’s a great market where we had goat curry and dahl soup that tore the roof off my mouth with its spicy heat.
Niki wanted to see a movie. We’re in a new town in a foreign country and she wants to see a movie? The only thing on was the new James Bond flick starting at 3. However, when we went in just before start time, we found the film was already well underway. James Bond is definitely not Sophie’s thing and she spent most of the time with her eyes closed, breathing deeply. Meditating or napping, I’m not sure which. I hung in there for Niki’s sake, but my heart wasn’t in it. I was amused to find the locals would talk all over the dialogue sequences, I’m guessing either because they don’t know English well enough or because they find those sections boring. However, during the action sequences they were riveted to the screen, and would cheer or applaud enthusiastically during particularly wild crashes or explosions.

Lautoka is a quiet place at night, even a Saturday night, so we spent the evening in our room, Niki flicking through magazines, Sophie painting her toenails while in some fantastic yoga pose, and me reading as usual. We didn’t talk, didn’t need to talk, it was all very companionable and easy. Sometimes I wonder how it is we are friends. We have such different attitudes and ambitions. But maybe that’s partly why.