Rainy today. We went to Les Champs Elysees and cashed some travelers cheques, dodging small cars that dashed about any which way, bicycles with bells that ting'ed and mopeds that coughed and rumbled like an old smoker. The view at the top of the Eiffel Tower was disappointing because it was so misty with rain and cloud. We fared better inside Notre Dame which filled me with gothic romantic thoughts. There were shadows sitting quietly and saying a prayer or two in tiny chapels that were like rooms filled with gold and paintings and candlelight. The place was filled with atmospheric whispers that echoed, and an invisible, haunting choir practicing, luminated with hundreds of white candles clustered in dusty, dark corners. I could just imagine Quasimodo on the top of the towers, and bought an English translation of ‘The Hunchback of Notre Dame’ to read on the train.
But my favourite was a little delicate church called Sainte Chappelle that was built in the 13th century. Not just gothic inspired but truly gothic! Amazing to think it is still standing after all the centuries of wars and revolutions. Inside it was columns and arches of blue and red and gold that stretched up into a tall narrow curve, filled with fleur de lis that looked like stars on an indigo night sky when seen from so far below. The architect must have been a smart person, man probably, given the times, to make something that inspired visitors to do exactly what the church owners wanted. It would be impossible to come in here and not look up in the direction of heaven.
There were no pews as such but one bench along the outside walls that was smooth and worn with hundreds of years of clothed bottoms sitting on it. The stained glass windows stretched up to the ceilings and I can't think how they managed to make them so tall and seemingly unsupported, with real glass, using the technology available more than 7 hundred years ago. 7 hundred years! That just blows my mind. North and South America weren't known about, Asia barely a rumour to Europeans. Is there anything built now that will last so long? And all the billions and billions of people who have lived and died since then, their bodies long dust, and yet this building still stands radiant and quiet. 
Even Niki liked it.
“Oooo, look at that gold shrine with what’s-her-name-Mary.”
“What’s-her-name-Mary?”
“What is it? You know. Virgin! That’s it. The Virgin Mary.
And I thought I was a religious ignoramus.
Even Niki liked it.“Oooo, look at that gold shrine with what’s-her-name-Mary.”
“What’s-her-name-Mary?”
“What is it? You know. Virgin! That’s it. The Virgin Mary.
And I thought I was a religious ignoramus.
On our way home the Metro was crowded and we had to stand all the way. Guys whistled at us and rubbed up against us. Niki seemed to like it and flounced her hair at them, but I was really uncomfortable, especially after the feeling of calmness I had after seeing Sainte Chappelle. This behaviour seemed gross and lumpy and modern. I tried to stare one guy down to shame him or something, but he seemed to take it as an invitation and started to move towards me so I immediately looked in another direction and thankfully the train let more people on so I was able to shuffle away and avoid him. I sometimes dream about guys noticing me and it’s really exciting and romantic, but in real life it’s just plain freaky. I’d never make a good vamp. 
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